Faux Leather

Faux leather, eco-leather, synthetic leather, pleather: these are all names for the same material. It is a fabric or composite that imitates the look and texture of natural leather, constructed on the basis of synthetic polymers applied to a fabric or knit substrate. The older trade name for the same type of material, especially in the PVC-based version, is simply pleather.

Standards clarify this naming confusion better than shop labels. According to PN-EN ISO 15987 and Regulation (EC) No 1007/2011, the manufacturer should specify the composition of the substrate directly, for example "100% polyester, PU coating", rather than using the word "leather" without genuine collagen.

One honest caveat is worth remembering right away: the name "eco-friendly" refers to the absence of animal origin, not to a smaller environmental footprint. Most variants of faux leather are neither more biodegradable nor easier to recycle than natural leather. This distinction matters later in this article when we compare faux leather to genuine leather.

Regardless of trade name, every faux leather is a multi-layer construction. At the bottom lies a substrate fabric or knit, most often polyester or cotton. On top of it sits a foamed or binding layer that gives the material thickness and softness. Above it sits a top layer responsible for texture and color. On the very top there may be an optional finish layer: lacquer, polyurethane top-coat or wax.

Abrasion resistance is measured using the Martindale method according to PN-EN ISO 12947. For comparison: natural aniline leather typically achieves 50,000 to over 100,000 cycles without scuffing. This is a number to keep in mind when reviewing each type of faux leather described below.

The market for alternative materials, partially or wholly based on plant-derived raw materials, has developed dynamically since around 2018-2021. This means that data on their long-term durability, beyond 5-7 years of use, are still limited. By comparison, conventional PU and PVC have been tested for decades.

The practical consequence is simple: these materials should be treated more carefully than proven PU or PVC. Lower temperatures for washing and drying, shorter contact with water, and mandatory testing on an inconspicuous area before using any cleaning agent is a reasonable standard of care. It is worth applying until individual manufacturers' formulations stabilize.

At the end of this section, one chemical difference worth returning to throughout the rest of this article. PVC contains plasticizers, phthalates or their phthalate-free alternatives DINCH and DOTP, in amounts of 25-45% by weight of the layer. Over time, they migrate to the surface, giving a "sticky" effect and characteristic new car smell.

PU works differently. It is an elastomer without plasticizers in the classical sense, but susceptible to hydrolysis, a reaction with atmospheric moisture that breaks down urethane bonds. Effect: first stickiness, then peeling of the top layer, known in the industry as "PU rot". The process is accelerated by UV radiation and elevated temperature. This distinction, PVC and migrating plasticizer versus PU and progressive hydrolysis, will return in the section on cracking and yellowing.

The chemical safety of faux leather depends mostly on production quality. Cheaper materials made by the 'wet process' can contain residual DMF solvent (reprotoxic) and volatile VOCs that cause a sharp chemical smell. When buying, look for an OEKO-TEX Standard 100 label or a 'DMF-free' declaration, and air out new items first. Contact skin irritation is usually caused by additives, not the polymer itself.

There is no single answer to which is better, faux or real leather, because it all depends on your priorities. Faux leather wins on price, availability and ethics, while real leather wins on longevity and genuine repairability. You tell them apart by the back (real leather has a suede, fibrous backing, faux a smooth textile one), by smell, and by how even the pore pattern is. Faux leather has a perfectly repeating embossed pattern that real leather never has.

We cover each aspect of faux leather care separately, in short guides, so you reach a specific answer faster instead of scrolling through one long text. Below is the whole series:

• How to wash faux leather
• Everyday faux leather care
• Why faux leather cracks and peels
• Faux leather stains and odor
• Faux leather jackets and pants
• When to take faux leather to a laundry